When somebody mentions a holiday in the Algarve, you probably picture golden beaches, dramatic cliffs, swimming pools and perhaps the busy resorts around Albufeira.
And there's absolutely nothing wrong with any of that.
But head east towards the Spanish border and you'll discover a rather different side of the Algarve.
Welcome to Tavira.
A beautiful Portuguese town with historic streets, a lovely riverfront, plenty of places to eat and something a little unusual about its beaches.
Because if you're staying in Tavira itself, getting to the main beach involves a boat trip.
And I think that's rather lovely.
Of course, if your idea of a perfect holiday is stepping out of your hotel room and straight onto the sand, we might need to have a different conversation!
A little more Portugal, a little less resort
One of the things that attracts me to Tavira is that it feels like somewhere you'd visit to enjoy Portugal itself, rather than simply spending a week inside a holiday complex.
The town sits along the River Gilão, with streets winding away from the waterfront, attractive squares, churches and plenty of places to stop for a coffee or something to eat.
It's somewhere I'd be inclined to explore without much of a plan.
Perhaps wander along the river, find a little restaurant for lunch, take a look around the old streets and generally enjoy being somewhere different.
You don't need to fill every day with excursions to make Tavira interesting.
Sometimes a holiday is at its best when you've got nowhere particular to be.
There's plenty of history here too
Tavira has a long history, reflected in its buildings and streets.
The town's castle area offers a chance to explore some of that past, with views across the rooftops and surrounding landscape.
You'll also find historic churches, including the Igreja da Misericórdia, and the Palácio da Galeria, which houses part of the town's municipal museum.
But I wouldn't suggest turning a day in Tavira into a race around every church and historic building.
Pick a couple of places that interest you, enjoy the surroundings and leave yourself plenty of time to stop.
And perhaps return to that café you discovered yesterday.
Nobody says you have to find a new one every time!
The beach is part of the adventure
Now, here's the bit that makes Tavira particularly interesting.
The main beach isn't directly in the town.
Instead, the sands of Ilha de Tavira, or Tavira Island, lie beyond the waterways of the beautiful Ria Formosa.
And one of the ways to reach them is by passenger ferry.
That means a beach day can begin with a little boat journey, taking you away from the streets of Tavira and out towards the island.
Once there, you'll find long stretches of sand and the Atlantic Ocean.
I can see the appeal of spending the morning enjoying the town, then heading off for an afternoon by the sea.
For some people, the ferry journey will be one of the nicest parts of the day.
For others, particularly families with very young children or anyone who needs to return to their accommodation regularly, it might be less convenient.
That's the important thing about Tavira. The boat isn't just a novelty; it's part of how your holiday works.
Ferries operate from Tavira and Quatro Águas, with schedules depending on the season. We'd want to look at the actual timetable for your dates before building a holiday around daily trips.
And if boarding arrangements or accessibility are important, those deserve checking with the operator too.
There's more than one beach to discover
Ilha de Tavira isn't the only stretch of coastline worth considering.
Further along the area, you'll find Praia do Barril, another beautiful beach associated with the Ria Formosa.
One of its distinctive features is the little tourist train that runs along the approach from Pedras d'El Rei. There's also a pedestrian route.
It's certainly not the usual way of getting to the beach!
The wider area includes other coastal communities and beaches, each with slightly different ways of reaching the sand.
This is where Tavira becomes particularly appealing to anyone who enjoys exploring rather than returning to exactly the same spot every day.
Just remember that different beaches have different access arrangements. The ferry to Tavira Island and the little train at Barril aren't interchangeable ways of reaching one beach.
Where I'd look at staying
This is one of the most important decisions for a Tavira holiday.
Not because there's one perfect area, but because different locations will give you quite different experiences.
Staying in Tavira town
If you want riverside walks, restaurants and the atmosphere of a Portuguese town, I'd start by looking at accommodation in or around central Tavira.
You could head out in the evening, choose somewhere nice for dinner and enjoy the town without needing transport every time.
For me, that's a big part of the attraction.
I'd pay attention to the exact location of your hotel or apartment, particularly how easy it is to reach the centre and the relevant ferry departure point.
Staying outside the centre
There are also hotels and apartments further from the heart of Tavira.
These might offer larger pools, more space or facilities that better suit your holiday.
But you may need transport to reach restaurants, shops or the boat.
That's not necessarily a problem. It just changes the sort of holiday you're booking.
What about Cabanas de Tavira?
Cabanas is another place I'd certainly consider.
It's a separate waterfront village with restaurants, a more relaxed atmosphere and boat access to its own beach across the Ria Formosa.
It could be a lovely alternative if you're looking for somewhere quieter.
But I wouldn't treat Cabanas and central Tavira as exactly the same location.
Both have their attractions. We just need to choose the one that suits how you'd like to spend your days.
The food is another good reason to visit
One of the pleasures of staying in a Portuguese town is having the opportunity to discover local restaurants.
And with Tavira's position close to the coast, seafood is understandably a big part of the area's food culture.
Fresh fish, grilled seafood and traditional Portuguese dishes are all worth looking out for.
If you venture towards nearby Santa Luzia, you'll find a village particularly associated with octopus.
That's certainly somewhere I'd consider for a relaxed lunch or evening meal.
And this is one of the reasons I think Tavira could work beautifully as a bed-and-breakfast or self-catering holiday.
Instead of feeling tied to hotel mealtimes, you can head out and discover somewhere different whenever you fancy it.
Of course, if you'd rather have most meals provided at your accommodation, we'll look for something that fits that preference.
Do you need to hire a car?
Not necessarily.
And that's another attractive part of Tavira.
The town has a railway station on the Algarve line, providing connections towards Faro and other destinations.
There's also the possibility of using local transport and boats to explore the surrounding area.
So if your holiday revolves around Tavira itself, nearby coastal communities and spending time on the island beaches, you may be perfectly happy without a hire car.
There is one practical detail worth remembering, though.
Faro Airport doesn't have a railway station in the terminal.
You would need to arrange the journey from the airport to the rail network or your accommodation.
And if you're planning lots of trips inland or want to explore more remote areas, hiring a car might be more convenient.
I'd make that decision based on what you actually want to do, rather than assuming everyone visiting the Algarve needs a car.
How long would I stay?
For a first visit, I think four or five nights could work really well.
That's enough time to enjoy the town, fit in a couple of beach outings and perhaps explore somewhere nearby without feeling rushed.
For a longer summer holiday, you could quite happily spend a week or more alternating between the beach, the pool and exploring.
The important thing is choosing the right accommodation and travel dates.
If swimming and long beach days are the main attraction, I'd look at the warmer months and check the seasonal ferry arrangements.
If you're more interested in sightseeing, food and enjoying the town, spring or autumn could be particularly appealing.
It's a destination that doesn't have to revolve entirely around sunbathing.
Who would I recommend Tavira to?
I think Tavira could be a brilliant choice for couples who enjoy exploring somewhere at their own pace.
It's also worth considering for families who like a mixture of beach days, eating out and discovering different places.
And if you've visited the Algarve before but fancy trying somewhere with a different atmosphere, it could be just the change you're looking for.
But I wouldn't recommend it to everybody.
If you want a huge resort hotel with waterslides, children's clubs and entertainment from morning until night, we might find something more suitable elsewhere in the Algarve.
Likewise, if being able to walk straight from your room onto the beach is essential, central Tavira probably isn't the best starting point.
There's no point recommending somewhere simply because it looks lovely in photographs.
The holiday has to work for the people actually going on it.
An Algarve holiday with a difference
What I like about the idea of Tavira is that it offers two quite different sides of a holiday.
You've got the town, with its history, restaurants, riverside atmosphere and places to explore.
Then you've got the beaches, reached across the Ria Formosa, where a little boat journey becomes part of the experience.
You can enjoy both without spending the entire holiday rushing around.
And perhaps that's what makes Tavira worth considering.
It's not trying to be the busiest or flashiest resort in the Algarve.
It's somewhere to enjoy Portugal, discover a few favourite places and take things at your own pace.
If that sounds like your sort of holiday, tell me when you're thinking of travelling, who's coming along and what you'd love to do while you're away.
I'll help you explore the accommodation and travel options to see whether Tavira might be the right fit.
Let's plan your Algarve holiday